When I decided to attend a medieval market in november. For some really beautiful pictures of this event, click here.
I searched
for the warmest costume I could find, the houppelande was on my wishlist so the choice was easy. A bigger problem was choosing what type of houppelande I wanted
as there is a great variety in necklines and sleeves options for this costume. I love the look of the early houppelande
with it's high collar and wide angel sleeves, but I am afraid it will make me look small and sturdy. With this version the neckline is still
high but the sleeves are tight, which makes this costume both warm and practical.
My version of the houppelande is not the basic wide a-line dress as you often see, nor made after the rotated-point, Circle-plan Houppelande theory by Cynthia Virtue. It is constructed like the Herjolfsnes coat (garment 63), described by Dame Helen in her Greenland theory. I had read that theory before making the herjolfsnes coat for my husband and when I was making the coat saw that there was a lot of sense in what she was saying. I talked about this with my friend Deredere who was working on a houppelande pattern at the time. After looking at the pattern of the herjolfsnes coat, I own a copy of the version sold by the Museum, we decided to make the panels somewhat wider and the armscye smaller.
We also worked on a headdress like the one in the painting of Rogier van der Weyden; Lady wearing a gauze headdress.
The construction of this headdress is actually simple, it consists of a stiffend linen band a veil and some veilpins. The hardest thing is figuring out how to pin it.
We got far but could not finish it in time. So I wore a simple veil, much like the one in my inspiration picture, The Deposition, instead.
The black leather belt is stamped with falling oak leaves and has a decorated pewter buckle and strap-end, it was purchased at the medieval market from Colin
Kendall aka Maisie Nicholas. In the picture of my dress I am wearing the beautiful buckle on my back.
Update november 2005
I have added fur trim at the hemline.
The picture is slightly taken from the side which reveals the fact that this dress
makes me look pregnant, which btw I am not. It is most likely the combination of the very tight, corset like, wide belt
and the stiff fake fur trim in the front opening which makes the front of the dress stand out like this.
Next time I wear this dress I hope to have the proper headdress ready.
The houppelande is made of green wool, lined with brown linen and partly lined and trimmed with grey fur. Underneath it I am wearing my orange kirtle and a white chemise. All visible seams have been handsewn.
For more information about the construction go to my houppelande construction page.
For more pictures of this costume and the event it was made for, click here
