Thorsbjerg tunic and trousers






The Thorsbjerg costume probably dates to the first/second centruy AD1, and is found at the Thorbjerg Mose, The Schleswig-Holstein area in Germany.

click for large image Thorsbjerg tunic, line drawing The Thorsbjerg tunic is made of four pieces with separate sleeves, which become narrower below the elbow, the wrist has a decorate edging and is slit. Possibly it was held closed by clasps. The front panel is 86 cm while the back is 90 cm and edged with a tablet-woven band. The tunic was put on over the head.
The construction of my grey wool tunic is quite similar to that of the Thorsbjerg tunic. It too is made from four pieces, and the front panel shorter is than the back panel. The sleeves are tapered towards the wrist and they are joined to the body of the garment at the top of the side seams. The sides of the tunic are slit for ease of movement. The tunic is put on over the head. Underneath it a white linen undertunic in the same simple cut and construction. Tunics depicted in later Anglo-Saxon art are very like these (although they appear more close fitting at the neck) and it seems likely that men of the fifth and sixth century wore similar tunics, which, if they were buried in them, have rotted away in the earth1.
Thorsbjerg trousers line drawing click to see larger image

The Thorsbjerg trousers where made in a high quality cloth, a broken lozenge twill. The cut was quite complicated and suggests a understandig of tailoring and patterns. It has separate pieces for each leg, which are ankle lenght. Attached to those by a narrow band are woven foot-pieces. The legs are narrow, only 30 cm at the calf but do not fit to the contours of the leg. This is because the trousers are cut on the straight grain of the fabric. This gives a much looser leg covering than one cut on the cross grain. The seat is rather baggy, there are panels at the seat and crotch to shape the garment to the body and to make it roomy enough to sit down in comfort. Six loops are sewn to the waistband, which looks like it was worn folded over. This gives a rather bulky waist, which can be seen in Roman art depicting the Gauls and other Celtic people. Some later medieval manuscripts show Irish men in similar garments.
My version is made of unbleached linen, the waistband is a tunnel for my belt instead of separate loops sewn on the waistband.

I made the entire costume myself and it is sewn by hand.

Sources:
1. Dress in Anglo-Saxon England:Gale R. Owen-Crocker
2. The Development of Costume: Naomi Tarrant
3. The Book of Costume (vol. 1)- Milla Davenport


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