On the left detail of; Jardin de
Déduit, from Le Livres des échecs amoureux moralisée, Robin Testard, Poitiers 1496-1498, Parijs, Bibliothèque
nationale, ms fr 143, fol.198v. The lady in the
picture is probably Diane de Conty, wife of the man who ordered the manuscript.
In the middle an image (details not known) with a later and more common version of the early tudor gown. These two
pictures where the inspiration for my gown.
As this version, without the front-split skirt, is a transitional dress it is extremely hard to find images.
More images from Le Livres des échecs amoureux moralisée;
Here you can even see a seam on the side of the bodice.
Detail of: Songe d'Évrard de Conty, Fol. 9.
Here is a description of what my tudor gown is ,supposed to be, going to look like: a red velvet dress with a wide skirt without a waist seam or split front, a square neckline and angle sleeves edged or linen with fur.
When we started out on the queste for this costume we found these,we where sceptic as they are from as theater costumebook but eventually
we ended up with a pattern that is quite similar:
Source; The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern and Cut from 1066 to 1930 by Margot Hamilton Hill and Peter A Bucknell.
Underpinnings;
No costume is complete without the right underpinnings. There is not much visual evidence for ladies underpinnings
in this period, so I had to go with what I could find and what I thought would work best for me. This means that I am
not saying that this is was what they actually wore in this period, this is just my personal educated guess
Here is my current theory;
A simple white linen square necked smock/chemise, sometimes decorated with blackwork.
Over the smock two kirtle's. Image is from a 1490 version of Boccace's "De mulieribus claris". As my gown is
a transition gown between the Burgundian dress and the Tudor dress and from ca. 1496-1498, this might very
well be what was worn beneath it, or something very similar. Note that the lady is wearing, what looks like, a tailed cap headdress.
With special thanks to Marie Chantal Cadieux, who posted this picture on the MedCos list.
and a flat fronted kirtle with side lacing or black bodice/corset.
My version; the bodice is made from black fabric (wool, velvet?) and is lined, the front panel has been reinforced with cord,
like a corded corset and here is how to make it..